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Reviews / 8 Years with No Problems
« Last post by Cary Austin on August 09, 2017, 10:19:27 AM »
8 years in service with no problems.  Two 3HP, one 5HP centrifugal pumps.   One 10HP submersible with 3” Cycle Stop Valve, and one 5HP with 2” Cycle Stop Valve.  5 Cycle Stop Valves total on this system.  Can’t imagine how much it would cost to try and keep VFD’s working on a system like this. 
Gary Kirkham
Frequently Asked Questions / Re: Pump Case Pressure
« Last post by Cary Austin on August 04, 2017, 08:56:43 AM »
Yes it will be fine.  You are not even at the max pressure rating for the pipe, and pipe has a burst pressre 2 to 5 times the rated pressure.
Frequently Asked Questions / Pump Case Pressure
« Last post by jzimmer238 on August 03, 2017, 04:41:49 PM »
I have a CSV1A with a bypass of 3 GPM set to 65 PSI. The pump is a Goulds 18GS30. The pressure switch is set at 50/70 and the tank is 86 gal. The pump curve shows 0 GPM at 600 TDH or about 3 gallons at about 585' TDH. The static water level is 262'. The pipe from the pump is 1.25 schedule 80 PVC with a rating of 260 PSI stamped on the side. I understand the pressure at the CSV would be (585-262)/2.31=139.8 PSI. Is the pressure at the pump case 585/2.31=253 PSI because the weight of the 262' of water?  If this is correct is it safe to operate the pipe at that pressure?
Excellent video, Cary. I hope it helps some people "see the light"!

Watson Gabriel

For all of those who have difficulty understanding pump curves, like engineer ibosley who this thread is about, I made a video of pump curves to better explain.  See this link.
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / Re: CSV model
« Last post by Cary Austin on July 24, 2017, 08:31:48 AM »
To be able to use the 4.5 gallon size tank, and to keep the pump from cycling when using more than 1 GPM, you will need the 50-1 valve.  I  could replace the guts for you, but it takes a special tool.  Either way you will need to remove the valve to do this.  So probably having a 50-1 on hand when you take it apart would be best.  Maybe you can just unscrew it from the incoming side and not have to cut and add a coupling?
Pumps, Wells, Tanks, Controls / CSV model
« Last post by AdFit on July 24, 2017, 07:59:09 AM »
In another thread the user was advised:

"You also have the 50-3 version, which has a 3 GPM minimum.  So you have to use 4 GPM or more to keep the pump running steady."

After running a hose in a bucket and then pouring into gallon jugs it was a quarter quart under 4 gallons, so I bought the 50-3 version and never saw the 4 gpm "or more" part before ordering.  This works fine with my geothermal unit on, but cycles like there is no CSV when I'm just running the hose (which I do frequently to change water out in big fish tanks in an aquaponics system).  To stop the cycling I have to open another hose bib and let the water run on the ground (to keep from ruining another deep well pump). 

I've been too busy to address this, but now my bladder tank has to be replaced so I'm going to be back into plumbing mode and plan to use a small tank as you have mentioned many times. 

So, do I have to order the 50-1 version, or can I replace the guts in my 50-3?  It's not just the money, I have very little CPVC pipe left coming coming out of the concrete floor and into the building and no room for a coupling above the CSV...

Thanks...  Mark
Open Loop Geothermal Heat Pump / Re: Advice for New Open Loop System
« Last post by Cary Austin on July 16, 2017, 06:32:49 PM »
Even better!  You just need a 1/2HP, 25 GPM well pump, and a 1/2HP jet pump to boost pressure when the house needs water.
Open Loop Geothermal Heat Pump / Re: Advice for New Open Loop System
« Last post by JSDrummer1 on July 15, 2017, 04:23:46 PM »
Very helpful. Thank you. One follow-up.

In the forum post you referenced, the original solution was to use a 2 HP pump and replaced with a 1 HP and a 3/4 HP pump.

In my situation, the well contractor recommended a 1 HP 25 gpm pump for both the house water and my single, 4 ton geothermal heat pump. Would the 2 pump solution still provide energy savings in my scenario?
Open Loop Geothermal Heat Pump / Re: Advice for New Open Loop System
« Last post by Cary Austin on July 14, 2017, 07:44:11 AM »
Even big pressure tanks like an 86 gallon size tank only holds 25 gallons of water.  25 gallons won't last long for a 6-9-12 GPM heat pump.  But with a CSV you only need a 4.5 gallon size tank, which only holds 1 gallon of water.  So worrying about the temp of the water coming out of the tank is a moot point.  I sort of have the same problem with my geo system.  The underground lines coming to the house are not deep enough, so I get hotter water coming in the summer and cooler water in the winter.  But it still works fine.

The trick to efficiency for a pump and dump system is using the smallest well pump possible.  It sometimes pays to have a 2 pump system.  This way the well pump can be smaller because it only supplies 20 PSI to the heat pump.  Then you have an additional jet pump booster that only comes on when needing water in the house.  The booster pump comes on and boost the 20 PSI to 50 PSI when the house needs water.  The majority of the time the well pump is the only one running, and feeding the geo 20 PSI is more efficient that feeding it 50 PSI.

See this thread.
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